Also, if you take the train into town watch your wallet. There are lots of pickpockets. I literally found a uniformed police offer and stood shoulder to shoulder with him to try to detract attempts.
Other than the "gut" it is a very nice city. The hills require a lot of leg strength (if you're not in good shape, exercise now), but they also offer tremendous views of this often overlooked gem of a city. Another thing that comes to mind is that their "Sardines" are either really huge, or are really just small fish. I ordered 10 at a restaurant across the harbor and it was WAY too much. I cannot stress taking the ferry across the harbor enough. Good places, that are not touristy at all and very cheap. Worth the short ferry ride.